skip to main |
skip to sidebar
Day one of our trip to Palawan didn't start well. Our flight to Puerto Princesa was delayed for over an hour. We were somewhat ticked off - we had to wake up at 1:30 am so we could be at the airport about 2 hours before our schedule departure - and then had to wait (inside the plane!) until the mechanical problem had been fixed and we were finally allowed to take off.
We arrived at Puerto Princesa at past eight am. Since we would not be able to check in at our room at the Princesa Garden Island Resort until 3 pm, Cynthia and I decided to check out the premises if there were some birds. We did see some but opted not to take photos yet. At 9 am we went to Badjao Seafood Restaurant which was not that far. The area in front of this restaurant is a good place to see Copper-throated Sunbirds, Stork-billed Kingfisher and Pale Spiderhunter. Unfortunately none of these species were present when we arrived. As we walked on the boardwalk towards the dining area we noticed something yellow flitting among the mangrove trees. It turned out to be three Common Ioras - a species that have not yet been reported being seen here before. One of them even posed unbelievably close!
After the Ioras left, there was once again a dearth in bird activity. There were two kinds of kingfishers, the Common and the Collared, that showed up but both preferred to stay at quite a distance resulting only in some very bad documentary shots. After a delicious lunch, we again staked out the parking lot. Still nothing. Cynthia suggested that she would go back to the dining area and wait for the Stork-billed while I would remain to wait for the Pale Spiderhunter. While I was roaming around I noticed a Grey Wagtail perched on a branch. Not far from it was a Grey-streaked Flycatcher hunting for insects.
 |
| Grey Wagtail |
 |
| Grey-streaked Flycatcher |
While I was taking shots at the two greys, I heard a loud clapping coming from the motorcycle parking area. I looked and it was one of the caretakers. He was frantically waving at me and pointing to a nearby tree. I ran toward him and as I got close he directed my attention at some movement among the tiny orange flowers. It was a male Copper-throated Sunbird!
At 1:30 pm we returned to the hotel and thankfully we were allowed to check in. After resting and taking a short nap, we returned to the area behind the hotel. This time we took pictures of the birds seen there: A Great Egret, a Little Egret, and a White-bellied Sea Eagle.
 |
| Little Egret |
 |
| Great Egret |
 |
| White-bellied Sea Eagle |
A little after 5 pm, my wife went to the restaurant to order a take out dinner. It was during that time that a flock of Red-vented Cockatoos (one of our target birds) came flying in. They tried to perch on the tall palm trees but because of the blustery winds blowing from the sea, they had a difficult time doing so. Most of them did some thermalling and showed off the reason for their name. I called Cynthia and excitedly told her that the Cockatoos had arrived. She ran to where I was and began taking photos herself.
It was already getting dark so we decided to return to our room. Despite a bad start, our first birding day in Palawan ended well as we ticked off our first photo lifer.
First of all, allow me to repeat here the wonderful blessings we got on this trip. Consider these:
We were still able to see the Mantanani Scops Owl and Grey Imperial Pigeon on the very day that Pandan Island was declared off-limits to birders. There was allegedly an unethical act committed by a foreign bird guide that prompted the owner of the island to declare the owl habitat to be off limits to birders.
Spotted Wood Owls had been seen in at least two different sites in the city of Puerto Princesa recently. However, access to both places became quite problematic at the time we got there. Thanks to Rommel, the local guide, a third, more accessible site was discovered and we were able to get photos of this huge night bird.
We got bonuses (species we didn't expect to see) in the form of a trio of Great Slaty Woodpeckers and a family of Fiery Minivets.
Now for the logistics:
On our first, third and fourth nights, we stayed at the Cecilia's Comfort Inn. It had the usual amenities - airconditioning, hot-and-cold showers, TV and free breakfast. The cost was P2,200 per night for three people. The room was a bit small for three and the water pressure on our first night was low. On the plus side, the staff was very helpful. Our minor complaints were taken cared of immediately. Also inasmuch as we usually leave the hotel at 5 in the morning they prepared a packed breakfast for all three of us (we can smell the cooking as early as 3:30 am) on each and every day of our stay there. Also included in the price was the airport transfer (to and from) the hotel. They also allowed us to stay well beyond the check out time of 11 am (our flight doesn't leave until 5 in the afternoon).
At Sabang we stayed at the Daluyon Beach and Mountain Resort. This was the same place we stayed in last year (they even gave us the same room we had then). A bit more on the expensive side compared to the other hotels in the area, but well worth it. Rooms are huge with the usual amenities and then some. Breakfast is also included in the P4424 a night rate (for two people - our friend, Irene, stayed with her aunt at the Sheridan Hotel). The staff was kind enough to pack our breakfast for our early morning boat trip to the Puerto Princesa Underground River.
Our transportation was handled by Rommel M. Cruz, the local bird guide. Our van to Sabang cost P3500 and then P1000 for the return trip to Puerto Princesa City. Jojo, our driver for all four days, was also a birder and bird photographer and was very helpful in finding birds for us. He was also very punctual.
For our trips to Iwahig and Irawan Ecopark the cost of the van was P2300 per day.
The boat fee going to Pandan Island was P1200 round trip. Getting to the Honda Bay pier (for the boat ride to Pandan Island) from Puerto Princesa cost us P200 for the tricycle ride and P150 for the return trip.
The boat fee to the Underground River was P1500. The 5:30 am trip was also arranged by Rommel since the usual trips to the underground river start at 8 am.
Permits to Puerto Princesa Underground River at P200 per person and to Pandan Island at P150 per person were all arranged by Rommel. He was also responsible for getting us inside the Iwahig Penal Colony.
Badjao Seafront Restaurant never disappoints in terms of food quality and service. A big bonus was that we saw and photographed the Copper-throated Sunbird and Stork-billed Kingfisher by the parking lot in front of the restaurant.
Kinabuch Bar & Grill, purportedly Puerto Princesa's best restaurant was a huge disappointment. The place is basically divided into two: open air and covered dining area. The place was almost full when we arrived on the evening of the 17th. As we were walking towards the covered dining area where we saw some empty tables, a hostess approached us and declared "Bawal diyan!" (That place is off limits!). Then she followed that up with, "go find a place in the open air section". We were about to do that when she met the group behind us and sweetly asked, "How many are you in the group?" When they answered "four", the hostess escorted them to the covered dining area. Cynthia was about to question her actions but I told my wife that we should just leave this place. We never felt so discriminated upon and this was the very first time we experienced this considering that we have been to many restaurants both here in the Philippines and abroad. I just hope that you will not get this kind of treatment should you decide to go to this place.
Ugong Rock Grill & Seafood Bar was where we headed to after that humiliating experience at Kinabuch. The ambiance was quite similar but the reception we got here was the exact opposite of that of the next door restaurant. The food was good and the service was great. You pick the food you like - different kinds of seafood and barbecued meat and they will grill them for you. Prices are very reasonable.
Flavors and Spices near the Crocodile Farm is a small, homey place. Food is incredibly delicious and cheap! This was where Cynthia and I first tasted crocodile meat. It was not bad at all. As the saying goes, it tastes just like chicken.
Rene's Saigon Restaurant near our hotel is a relatively new eatery. Although it is supposed to be a Vietnamese restaurant, we felt that the fares were not authentic enough. Servings were rather small but then again they're quite cheap.
And in conclusion we can't thank Rommel enough for arranging our transportation and permits, for showing us where the Spotted Wood Owls were and for guiding us to Iwahig and Irawan on our last day. It had been a fruitful trip for us, seeing more than 60 species of birds, 16 of which were lifers.
The plan was to go birding at the Iwahig Penal Colony. However, the Security Guard at the gate stopped us and demanded a permit - something we thought was not necessary for birders. No matter what explanation or argument we made, he was quite adamant not to let us in.
That was a bit unexpected so we resorted to plan B - go birding at Irawan Ecopark. Even though we arrived early enough we didn't see the hoped-for birds. They were there alright judging from the calls emanating from the behind the thicket. It's just that they refused to come out in the open despite the gentle coaxing by Irene.
While our friend was hitting the trails searching for the elusive babblers, Cynthia and I stayed by the river to be refreshed from the stifling humidity. It was then that I saw something totally unexpected - a raptor silently gliding overhead. A few quick photos revealed that it was a Crested Serpent Eagle which made it a lifer for us.
We had a superb lunch at Badjao Seaside Restaurant which we consumed way before our designated pick up time of 1:30. We positioned ourselves in front of a tree with tiny orange flowers. I remembered our birding friends Gabs and Ely saying that this particular tree was frequented by the Copper-throated Sunbird - a species in our target list. Although we missed it last year, our expectations were still high that we would be able to see this colorful bird.
A few minutes passed and I saw something dark-colored fly into the flowering tree. Hoping that it was not just the local Pied Fantail who every so often also visits the said tree, I peered through my camera and was elated to discover that I was looking at our sought after lifer. For about an hour the sunbird pair would fly off and then return a few minutes later giving us multiple opportunities to take its photograph (which wasn't easy considering both were very active and preferred the areas with heavy foliage).
Our van arrived promptly at 1:30 but Irene wanted to get more shots of the Copper-throated. I was on the way back to the restaurant to answer the call of nature when I heard some loud screeching noises coming from the mangroves. I followed the source of that noise and saw two Stork-billed Kingfishers having a squabble. I ran back to where my companions were and pointed the bird (only one remained) to them. After I had finished my personal "duty" and emerged from the restaurant, the kingfisher was still there and allowed me to take its picture.
We met up with local guide, Rommel, at around 2:30 pm. As promised he took us to the "new" secret place where a pair of Spotted Wood Owls had been, um, spotted. Cynthia and I had been a bit worried that we might not be able to see this would-be lifer because even though it had been sighted in two different places before - access to those areas had become a little problematic lately. To have a third and even more easily accessible place was a blessing and quite unexpected.
To celebrate this serendipitous encounter, we all headed to Razon's for its delicious, refreshing halo-halo.
I admit that despite our research from the internet and from friends there were still a lot of glitches during our first time trip to Puerto Princesa, Palawan. For one thing it had been raining off and on throughout our stay there and then there was the permit to the Underground River fiasco. (Please see my previous blogs for details). Nevertheless, we still got three lifers and managed to see some beautiful birds. We also had pleasant experiences at the local hotels.
We were picked up at the airport by the hotel van. We booked at the Palo alto Bed & Breakfast for June 25th and then on June 27th. Our room was in excellent condition with hot showers, refrigerator, complimentary bottled water, aircon and complimentary breakfast (you choose from Filipino, American, or local - all of which are very delicious). Their in-house restaurant, Salakot, opens at 6 am. However when we left for Sabang at 5;30 the following morning, they even packed our complimentary breakfast for us! The hotel itself is relatively new (it opened in 2011). It has a native look to it and the foundations were made of a Acacia manguim taken from a responsibly maintained local plantation. The hotel uses solar energy to heat their water. It being away from the city center, and thus far the noise and pollution make it a perfect nature getaway. Palo Alto also offers free van transportation to and from the city/airport. From the hotel's two decks you can view the surrounding trees and hear the sound of bird songs. We saw about 15 species of birds within the surrounding area. Everyone at Palo Alto, from their cordial owner, Guido Ylaya, the desk personnel, Bernadette & Girlie, to their driver, Mervin, were very nice, helpful and made sure our stay was enjoyable.
In Sabang we stayed at the Daluyon Beach and Mountain Resort. Again, the staff, particularly May and Grace at the reception area and Eugene, the carabao cart driver, were exceedingly helpful. Rydell and Julbert, the waiters at the in-house Pawikan Restaurant, were the epitome of service and friendliness.
Badjao Restaurant in Puerto Princesa sits atop a mangrove forest. Fresh sea breezes kept the place comfortably cool. The dishes, particularly the seafood, were gastronomical delights. The waiters were friendly and courteous and the prices were just right.
Kalui Restaurant in Puerto Princesa, touted as the number one in the city, for us was a bit disappointing. Compared to Badjao's expansive feel, Kalui, although bigger in space, seemed cramped and dark. The wall decor was composed of various works of art some of which were quite prurient in nature, which makes this place not really family-friendly. The waiters tend to be aloof and just focused on serving food without a hint of congeniality. The dishes themselves were just so-so.
Logistics:
Palo Alto Bed & Breakfast - P3,000.00 a night. (complimentary breakfast included)
Private Van (provided by Lexus Shuttle Service) to Sabang - P3,000.00
Daluyon Beach & Mountain Resort - P4,424.00 a night (complimentary breakfast included)
Public Van from Sabang - P140.00 per person = P280.00
June 25 dinner, Badjao Restaurant - P522.00 (senior discounted)
June 26 lunch, Pawikan in Daluyon Resort - P490.00 (senior discounted)
June 26, dinner, Pawikan in Daluyon Resort - P350.00 (senior discounted
June 27, lunch at Badjao - P370.00 (senior discounted)
June 27, dinner at Kalui - P390.00
Tricycle fares - P80.00 used twice = P160.00
Van to Iwahig (provided by Palo alto B&B) - P1,200.00 (half day)
