Puerto Princesa Birding, Part III - Hits and Misses

Getting a picture of the Palawan Peacock Pheasant at the Underground River was a piece of cake. The Tabon Scrubfowls (there were two of them) were more of a challenge - preferring to forage in the forest undercover. Irene and I, together with our boatmen, Enteng and Mark, had been patiently trying to get a better view of the local megapode with very little success. 

My wife, frustrated with her camera's performance on dark subjects opted to roam the shoreline. Her wanderings got her a Stork-billed Kingfisher and a Pacific Reef Heron which I first thought was a Great-billed when she showed me the image.

When Cynthia joined us an hour later we were still going after Scrubfowl. It was then that the birds strayed into a more open space and we got some passable photos at last.

Having seen our two target birds that morning, we went back to where our boat was anchored. Irene at this point was shrieking with joy as the Palawan Peaock Pheasant walked towards her with such nonchalance that she was able to photograph it with her point-and-shoot camera.

While our friend was enjoying her luck, Cynthia spotted another Reef Heron. I scrambled out of the boat and ran towards the wader. Mark who was with me told me to hurry up because another boat was coming in and it would spook the bird away. True enough once the chugging motor of the banca became audible, the Reef Heron departed from the area. Luckily I was able to get a few shots before it did.

After lunch we lingered by the cliff where we saw the Palawan Tit yesterday. It was decided that we will stay here until about 5 pm to wait for the Palawan Hornbills to show up. At three o'clock, Cynthia was getting antsy and I was getting a bit drowsy. She wandered down the road to look for some bird, any bird, to photograph. My wife hadn't gone far when she came rushing back, shouting, "Red!" "Red!" She pointed to the middle branches of a tall acacia tree. I saw something..yellow! and red! and orange!

"Fiery Minivets!" It was my turn to shout. What followed was a photographic frenzy by four excited birders. After all the minivet was a lifer for all of us.

After the colorful family left, our attention was shifted to the constant calling of a Green Imperial Pigeon. We tried as hard as we could but our efforts at locating the bird were all in vain.

Past five in the afternoon the Hornbills were still a no-show. With heavy hearts we headed back to Puerto Princesa City.

Puerto Princesa Birding, Part II - Stop and Go

The road to Sabang is arguably one the prime birding places in Puerto Princesa. There are several spots along the 80 kilometer stretch where one can find beautiful birds, many of which are found only in the island of Palawan. It was practically a stop and go kind of birding for us.

Jojo, our driver and companion for the next three days, was very punctual. At 5:30 in the morning we were already cruising the famed highway of birds. One hour later we chalked our first lifer of the day: the strange dinosaur-like Great Slaty Woodpecker. Just as soon as we parked our van, three of these huge birds flew into the tall tree next to us, all the while calling raucously.

At our next stop, it was Jojo (who was also interested in birds and is himself a bird photographer) pointed to us our second lifer: the Palawan Tit.

Further along the road, we saw a Chestnut-breasted Malkoha basking in the morning sun.

At one of the lookout points we flushed a colorful Black-headed Bulbul.

The rest of the way we just saw the usual Palawan suspects: Palawan and Ashy-fronted Bulbuls, Streaked Flowerpecker and White-vented Shama. 

We stopped by the DabDab Resort for some refreshments and to look for our target bird. After an hour of waiting, we finally were rewarded with quick views of the very active Pale Spiderhunter, our 3rd lifer of the day.

Happy and hungry, we proceeded to a nearby unnamed restaurant where we had a leisurely buffet lunch for only P200 per head.

Half past two and we were on the road again. The same Puerto Princesa - Sabang road, only this time we were on the way back. We planned to stop by the viewdeck and wait for the Red-vented (Philippine) Cockatoos to appear. It was a long two-hour wait which we used to look for other birds in the area. We saw some Chestnut Munias (up in a mountainside and away from ricefields!), and a young Blue-headed Racket-tail.

It was here also that we got our fourth lifer, the Philippine Drongo-Cuckoo. I almost overlooked this one, thinking that it was just another Hair-crested Drongo (which was also quite common in the area).

A little after 5 pm, Jojo yelled, "Cockatoos!" Sure enough, three lovely white birds were flying in the distance - too far and too fast for us to be able to take their pictures.

Joyfully we returned to Sabang, stopping for a few minutes to look for the Palawan Frogmouth and failing badly.

Evening fell, Cynthia and I had a quiet dinner at our hotel's restaurant while Irene joined her Aunt and Uncle at the Sheridan Hotel. Jojo said he'll be alright by himself.

By nine o'clock my wife and I are fast asleep.

Puerto Princesa Birding, Part I - Sun and Rain

A quick check-in at our hotel and hurried lunch at the local Chowking and then we were off on a motorized banca (an outrigger boat). Our destination: Pandan Island. We only had a short window of two-and-a-half hours, 2:00 to 4:30 pm to complete our mission of finding three lifers. Lifers that could be easily seen at this exotic island.

photo courtesy of Irene Dy

As we were chugging along the choppy waters of Honda Bay, Irene got a call. It was from our friend, Tonji. He informed us that Pandan Island was now officially off limits to birders and bird photographers. (We learned later on that this decision was made by the owner of the island because of an unethical behavior of a foreign bird tour guide.) To say that we were shocked by this news was an understatement. My wife, Cynthia, Irene and myself agreed that we couldn't turn back now. After all, Rommel, our friend and local guide, advised us to introduce ourselves to Ka Mamay who will help us accomplish our mission.

Which we promptly did as soon as we anchored at the beach. Ka Mamay welcomed us openly and told the local boys to take us to our first target. Frenel, the oldest among them, led the way through a very thick and tangled forest. I soon discovered that my arm was bleeding. Wrestling with those thorny plants along the way was the culprit. Cynthia's legs and mine were peppered with scratches and insect bites (note: never wear shorts when going through a forest). Take note also that there were no trails in this forest so we had to fight our way against those constricting vines and fend off attacks from the thorny bushes. Add to these the extreme humidity. We were so wet as if we were dipped in a pool of sweat (which we, by all practical means, were).

Then came another bad news: the bird we were looking for was not in its usual roost. Thankfully, these kids never gave up. They fanned out and searched the tree tops diligently. Finally one of them shouted that he found it. Another battle with the vines and various entanglements ensued. At last we  saw all four boys pointing up and smiling. Unlike its previous encounters with birders where it was out in the open, this time the Mantanani Scops Owl thought it more prudent to be almost completely hidden from view. We have that unscrupulous bird guide to blame for this situation. Still we were able to take some photographs albeit only of the head (and even partial at that) to be thankful for.

The second target was a lot easier inasmuch as it could be seen from an open area. A bit far but we still had very good looks at the Grey Imperial Pigeon.

We were taking pictures of this uncommon bird when claps of thunder announced the onset of rain. We abandoned all efforts at locating our third target, the Pied Imperial Pigeon, and hurriedly went back to our boat.

The waves were even more turbulent as we headed back to Puerto Princesa. About fifteen minutes before we landed we were hit by a squall. Once again we were all wet but this time from the pouring rain and the splashing waves.

photo courtesy of Irene Dy

Back at the hotel as we assessed our first birding day in Puerto Princesa, we all concluded that this was one of the toughest times we had in getting a couple of lifers. We had the scars, insect bites and smelly clothes to attest to that. But we look forward to the next three days. Our birding appetite had just been whet.

Puerto Princesa Birding - Logistics and Information

I admit that despite our research from the internet and from friends there were still a lot of glitches during our  first time trip to Puerto Princesa, Palawan. For one thing it had been raining off and on throughout our stay there and then there was the permit to the Underground River fiasco. (Please see my previous blogs for details). Nevertheless, we still got three lifers and managed to see some beautiful birds. We also had pleasant experiences at the local hotels.


We were picked up at the airport by the hotel van. We booked at the Palo alto Bed & Breakfast for June 25th and then on June 27th. Our room was in excellent condition with hot showers, refrigerator, complimentary bottled water, aircon and complimentary breakfast (you choose from Filipino, American, or local - all of which are very delicious). Their in-house restaurant, Salakot, opens at 6 am. However when we left for Sabang at 5;30 the following morning, they even packed our complimentary breakfast for us! The hotel itself is relatively new (it opened in 2011). It has a native look to it and the foundations were made of a Acacia manguim taken from a responsibly maintained local plantation. The hotel uses solar energy to heat their water. It being away from the city center, and thus far the noise and pollution make it a perfect nature getaway. Palo Alto also offers free van transportation to and from the city/airport. From the hotel's two decks you can view the surrounding trees and hear the sound of bird songs. We saw about 15 species of birds within the surrounding area. Everyone at Palo Alto, from their cordial owner, Guido Ylaya, the desk personnel, Bernadette & Girlie, to their driver, Mervin, were very nice, helpful and made sure our stay was enjoyable.

In Sabang we stayed at the Daluyon Beach and Mountain Resort. Again, the staff, particularly May and Grace at the reception area and Eugene, the carabao cart driver, were exceedingly helpful. Rydell and Julbert, the waiters at the in-house Pawikan Restaurant, were the epitome of service and friendliness.

Badjao Restaurant in Puerto Princesa sits atop a mangrove forest. Fresh sea breezes kept the place comfortably cool. The dishes, particularly the seafood, were gastronomical delights. The waiters were friendly and courteous and the prices were just right.

Kalui Restaurant in Puerto Princesa, touted as the number one in the city, for us was a bit disappointing. Compared to Badjao's expansive feel, Kalui, although bigger in space, seemed cramped and dark. The wall decor was composed of various works of art some of which were quite prurient in nature, which makes this place not really family-friendly. The waiters tend to be aloof and just focused on serving food without a hint of congeniality. The dishes themselves were just so-so.

Logistics:


Palo Alto Bed & Breakfast - P3,000.00  a night. (complimentary breakfast included)


Private Van (provided by Lexus Shuttle Service) to Sabang - P3,000.00


Daluyon Beach & Mountain Resort - P4,424.00 a night (complimentary breakfast included)


Public Van from Sabang - P140.00 per person = P280.00


June 25 dinner, Badjao Restaurant - P522.00 (senior discounted)


June 26 lunch, Pawikan in Daluyon Resort - P490.00 (senior discounted)


June 26, dinner, Pawikan in Daluyon Resort - P350.00 (senior discounted


June 27, lunch at Badjao - P370.00 (senior discounted)


June 27, dinner at Kalui - P390.00


Tricycle fares  - P80.00 used twice = P160.00


Van to Iwahig (provided by Palo alto B&B) - P1,200.00 (half day)

Puerto Princesa Birding - Day 4

"Angel" in a Jolly Mood


We did not have an "angel" with us this morning. But we were in a jolly mood - the sun was shining, the birds were chirping.


Our last day in Puerto Princesa. Our plane doesn't leave until 1 pm so we have the whole morning to bird the surrounding area of our hotel. It was a reprise of what we have seen three days ago. With a little bonus! We were surprised to see an Ashy Drongo perched on a wire overlooking a tiny corn patch teeming with Chestnut Munias.

The Brown-throated Sunbirds were enjoying the sunshine that had been missing the past several days.  

The juvenile white-vented Shama was still in its usual hangout. This time it was joined by an adult. 

Even the Pygmy Flowerpeckers were bolder than usual.

Indeed time flies when you're having fun. Soon it was time to go. We bade fond farewells to the hotel staff who had been so nice and helpful to us.


We'll be back!

Puerto Princesa Birding - Day 3

"Angel" Come Lately


Let me start off by saying that our stay in Sabang was disastrous in terms of birding. The idiom "when it rains, it pours" certainly rang true for us and literally too. When we inquired at the desk of the hotel where we were staying regarding the tours they were offering to the Subterranean River we were told that they were no longer doing so. Apparently permits were needed to be able to enter the park area and  the place to get the permits was in the city of Puerto Princesa, some 80 kilometers away. From what we learned, a 30-day advance notice was required to get such permits.


We also declined to take the Mangrove Paddle Boat tour despite the promise of possibly seeing a lot of birds along the mangroves. For one thing it had been raining off and on and without sufficient cover, the odds of our cameras getting splashed by waves and raindrops were frightening.


Under these circumstances we decided to return to Puerto Princesa as early as possible. The public van leaves at 7:30 am we were informed. At 7:15 we were aboard the carabao-pulled cart which would takes us from the hotel to the van terminal. Eugene, our carabao cart driver, was curious about us. He said that he saw us yesterday toting cameras with long lenses. 


"We're bird photographers", we explained. He inquired if we have taken the tours. In so many words we poured out our frustrations. 


"You could have taken other options", he told us.


"Like what?" We were genuinely curious.


"Well, you could have taken the mountain trail behind Robert's Hotel. It's an easy trail through a dense forest. There were plenty of birds seen there. Or you could have taken the trail going to the zip line. You will have to wade a little through very shallow waters though then go up a forested hill. Many birds there, too!"


"But would that involve some strenuous hiking? We're no longer spring chickens, you know."


"Oh, you both can definitely handle those trails. Besides you'd be stopping every now and then to take pictures of birds, won't you?" He certainly made a lot of sense.


"Oh, Eugene!" I exclaimed. "Why did we meet you only now!"


It was too late to turn back, having checked out of the hotel already and we have already reserved a space on the van going to Puerto Princesa.


We were brooding on our seats as we left Sabang. Things even got worse when our van suffered a flat tire delaying our trip by some 30 minutes. We arrived at Puerto Princesa about 10 am, checked in at Palo Alto Bed and Breakfast and then went to Badjao Restaurant for lunch. 


Once again, we hoped to see the Stork-billed Kingfisher that supposedly inhabits the mangroves nearby. Once again, it was a no-show. After lunch we lingered outside the restaurant while waiting for the van that will take us to Iwahig to arrive. I texted birding friend, Gabs Buluran, and inquired where he found the Copper-throated Sunbird the last time he was here. Near the tricycle stand where the trees with red flowers are and next to where the Pied Fantails hang around, he told me. Pied Fantails, ok we got that. But where were the red flowers? Cynthia and I were in this mystified mood when rain fell.


Guido Ylaya, the owner of Palo Alto B&B, was very kind enough to let us use the hotel van and driver to take us to Iwahig at a very reasonable price. We've been trying to negotiate for transportation to take us to the famous Penal Colony but the quotes we were getting were bordering on the ridiculous.


Mervin, the driver, was the polar opposite of Frederick, our driver to Sabang. Where Frederick was laconic, Mervin was loquacious - and quite knowledgeable. Current events, history, name it, and he would expound on those subjects with admirable details. Our trip to Iwahig then was never boring and despite the intermittent rain we still saw some birds along the way - most of which were badly photographed. 


At Balsahan - the only place where we were allowed to go - it was dreary and scary. The locals who were manning the "pool" area were too cloying it seemed. It was when we left the "pool" area that we saw something blue fly across the road and alit on the tree nearby. Cynthia and I jumped out and saw a pair of Asian Fairy Bluebirds!

Then came a loud "wek-wek-wek". It was through our efforts at locating the source of that sound that we discovered the Balsahan trail - the widely known birding spot here in Iwahig. Unfortunately it was drizzling again and the despite Cynthia hearing a cacophony of bird songs, the place was too dark and wet to see any birds at all. It was now getting late and we still have a 6 o'clock reservation at Kalui Restaurant so we told Mervin that it was time to go.


On the way back, we passed by some newly fallowed ricefields. To our surprise, Spotted doves were plentiful. Mingling with them were Watercocks - a family of them. A Paddyfield Pipit was another surprise.

Spotted Dove

Watercock

Watercock - male

Paddyfield  Pipit

As if on cue, just as we finished taking pictures of these birds, heavy rain fell again from the skies. We arrived at Kalui just in time, thanked Mervin and then endured a so-so dinner at an overrated restaurant.

Puerto Princesa Birding

Introduction


Allow me to borrow a Dickensian term to describe our birding experiences in Puerto Princesa, Palawan: 


It was the best of times because we met some wonderful people whom Cynthia called "angels" (which will be the underlying theme of the subsequent blogs on Puerto Princesa). We enjoyed some good food and stayed at very relaxing hotels. Above all we added two more species to our life list and saw some gorgeous and unique birds. 


It was the worst of times because even though we saw many birds  we also missed most of our target species. Blame it on the rainy weather and also some bad luck. Despite the research we've made prior to our visit, there were still some glitches - like needing a permit to get to the Underground River in Sabang. We thought that this could be obtained by the local hotels inasmuch as they sponsor tours to this place as part of their packages anyway. Apparently there had been a recent change in procedures that now require potential tourists to get their permits personally from the DENR (Department of Environment and Natural Resources) office in Puerto Princesa City (a good 80 km from Sabang). 

We also declined the offer to take the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour for fear of having our cameras getting wet not just from the waves but also from the pluvial downpour. Did I mention that it was raining off and on throughout our stay in Palawan?


Despite these setbacks we still enjoyed our stay in Puerto Princesa. Even before embarking on this trip we knew there would be uncertainties and we prepared ourselves accordingly by not expecting a lot. For my wife and myself this was some sort of a "casing the joint" adventure. Based on what we went through we learned a lot that would make us more successful next time around.


As we boarded the plane to take us back to Manila we were already drawing up plans to return. When the rainy season is over.